The Pacific Northwest Homeowner's Annual Maintenance Checklist (2026)

The Pacific Northwest is uniquely tough on homes. We get 37+ inches of annual rainfall, months of overcast and damp conditions, occasional freeze-thaw cycles, moss that grows on every horizontal surface, and the constant threat of moisture intrusion. Generic "home maintenance checklists" written for the rest of the country miss the PNW-specific issues that matter most here.

This checklist is built from 30+ years of repair calls. Almost every $10,000+ repair we get called for could have been a $200 maintenance task two years earlier. The pattern is consistent: a small problem (clogged gutter, failed caulk, soft fascia board) gets ignored, water finds the path of least resistance, and within a year or two the damage extends behind the siding, into the framing, or down into the foundation.

Structure your year around four seasonal pushes. None of these tasks are hard — most are 30 minutes to an afternoon — but skipping them is how PNW homes become expensive.

Once the heavy rains taper off, do a full perimeter walk. You're looking for what winter exposed:

- **Inspect the roof for winter damage.** Missing or curled shingles, moss colonies, lifted flashing. From the ground with binoculars is fine if you don't want to climb up. - **Clean gutters and downspouts.** This is the most-skipped maintenance task in the PNW and the most consequential. Verify every downspout is connected and directs water at least 4 feet away from the foundation. - **Walk the exterior with a screwdriver.** See our [dry rot inspection guide](/blog/dry-rot-inspection-guide-vancouver-wa) for the full checklist — but at minimum, probe window sills, deck posts, and fascia ends. - **Check exterior paint and caulking.** PNW winters expose every weakness. Note areas of peeling, cracking, or bubbling paint. Mark them for summer. - **Inspect decks for winter damage.** Soft boards, popped fasteners, separated railings. Re-stain or seal if your finish is more than 2 years old. - **Test the sump pump (if you have one).** Pour a bucket of water in the pit and confirm it pumps. - **Check crawl space moisture barrier.** Walk the perimeter with a flashlight. Standing water, torn vapor barrier, or wet wood = call someone. - **Power wash siding, driveway, walkways.** Especially north-facing surfaces where moss and algae accumulate. - **Inspect windows and doors for drafts and seal failures.** Light a candle and run it around the perimeter on a windy day — flickering = air leak.

Summer is when exterior work actually happens in the PNW because surfaces need to be dry and warm. Book contractors early — the good ones fill their summer schedules by April.

- **Exterior painting.** Best conditions: dry, 50-85°F, low humidity. PNW-rated paint products only — typically 100% acrylic latex with mildew-resistant additives. - **Deck staining or sealing.** Same window as painting. Strip and re-stain decks every 2-3 years; clear sealers every 1-2 years. - **Dry rot repairs.** Dry weather lets us treat surrounding wood, install flashing properly, and cure caulking. Don't postpone known rot — it spreads fastest during the wet season that follows. - **HVAC service.** Get your furnace/heat pump checked before the fall heating season. Replace filters. - **Re-caulk exterior penetrations.** Hose bibs, dryer vents, A/C line entries, conduit. Old caulk pulls out, new caulk goes in. - **Touch up interior paint, patch drywall.** Inside work is fine year-round but summer is when you have windows open and dry air to help things cure. - **Clean dryer vent.** Lint buildup in dryer vents is a fire hazard and reduces dryer efficiency. Disconnect the vent from the dryer and clear it with a long brush at least once a year.

This is the most important season for PNW homes. Anything you don't do in fall, you'll wish you had done by January.

- **Final gutter clean after leaf-fall peaks.** Late October to mid-November for most of Clark County. Verify gutter slopes drain to downspouts and downspouts are unobstructed. - **Inspect and clean chimney/fireplace.** Especially if you use wood — creosote buildup is a chimney fire hazard. - **Check weather stripping on exterior doors.** Replace if compressed or torn. Cheap fix, big comfort upgrade. - **Drain and winterize outdoor faucets and irrigation.** Disconnect hoses, shut off interior valves to outdoor bibs, blow out irrigation lines. - **Test smoke and CO detectors.** Replace batteries (or replace the whole detector if it's 10+ years old). Daylight Saving Time end is the traditional reminder date. - **Inspect attic insulation and ventilation.** Soffit and ridge vents should be unobstructed. Adequate insulation prevents ice dams during cold snaps. - **Trim tree branches.** 6+ feet clearance from roof and siding. Branches touching the house cause shingle damage, hold moisture against siding, and provide animal highway access to your attic. - **Apply moss treatment to roof if needed.** Zinc strips or a zinc-sulfate-based moss killer. Apply in late fall so it works through the wet season. - **Inspect exterior wood for protective finish.** Fascia, trim, deck. Anything that's gray or weathered = touch-up paint or stain before the rain starts.

Less outdoor work this season. Mostly you're watching for moisture problems that the wet season exposes.

- **Monitor for ice dams.** Rare in Vancouver but possible during cold snaps with snow. Look for icicles forming along eaves and water staining on interior ceilings near exterior walls. - **Check for condensation on windows.** Persistent fog on the inside of windows = excess humidity. Run bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans longer; consider a dehumidifier in problem rooms. - **Inspect caulking around bathtubs, showers, sinks.** Failed caulking lets water reach subfloor framing. A $5 tube of caulk prevents thousands in interior dry rot. - **Watch for moisture intrusion signs.** Musty smells, dark spots on walls/ceilings, peeling paint, warped trim. These show up first during the wettest weeks of the year. - **Keep gutters clear after storms.** Wind storms drop branches and debris. Quick clear after major events prevents winter overflow. - **Check exterior drainage during heavy rain.** Walk the perimeter mid-rainstorm in good rain gear. Water should flow away from the foundation. Pooling against the house = a future foundation or crawl space problem.

DIY maintenance is great for cleaning, inspecting, and basic tasks. The line moves into pro territory when:

- You find **structural damage** — soft wood that extends more than a few inches, cracked foundation walls, sloping floors, doors that suddenly won't latch. - You find **moisture behind walls** — bubbling paint, dark stains spreading, musty smells in finished rooms. - The job requires **permits or electrical/plumbing work behind walls**. - The work is **above 8 feet off the ground** and involves more than light gutter cleaning. - You're prepping a home **for sale or buyer-requested repairs** — buyer inspections find things sellers miss, and rushed pre-listing repairs often fail buyer re-inspection.

Catching problems during routine maintenance is always cheaper than emergency repair. The job that costs $1,000 in October costs $5,000 if you wait until April.

CRM Services offers seasonal maintenance and repair services for homeowners and property managers across Clark County. We can do an annual walk-through inspection, handle the items you'd rather not DIY, and flag anything that needs attention before it becomes expensive.

Property managers — this checklist is also a great template for the units you manage. We partner with property management companies across Clark County for ongoing maintenance. Call (503) 898-0276 or request an estimate online.